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Thank you from Laval in Montreal Quebec

Can you attempt to open up/fix the 101 module?

Hi have you tried this with insects and other small critters?

Great comparison, much appreciated. Although in the review you say that the P2Pro has autofocus, whilst I believe this is not the case. It has a fixed focus (and hence why you need the macro lens up close). As for holding the camera, maybe one of those cheap microscope stands would be useful! From what I read, these two have different sensors indeed. The T2S+ has a sensor which is a generation older compared to the P2.

Ho does the model ET13S Pro compares to ET13S?

Thanks a lot for correct explained ❤ Sometimes I have problem with the British accent! What I missed is directly connected diac and thyristor to Gate! Variable supply of diac to Gate! But thanks 😊 U give me Manny answer's and open a lot of questions!

I’m an Environmental Engineer who did electronics projects and repair as a hobby. After graduating I was struggling to find the right job. Videos like yours helped me a lot to learn electronics repair. Now I work as a Service Technician for environmental instruments and get paid like an engineer :) Cheers!

Surprised to see you place your multimeter on the heatsink there Richard whilst the amp was powered up especially since the heatsinks can often times have high voltages on them. Makes me appreciate the lengths you go to to provide a good repair lesson. Please be careful though.

Does the pc power when you plug the charger without inserting the battery

I'm beginner, thank you.👍

I agree to play it safe too.

Dont risk it. Who knows whats going on inside those black boxes.

tHEM xTALS WERE MANUFRACTED IN oKLAHOMA cIYTY, oKLOHAMA. i OWNED PROBLY 50-60 ON THEM bIG hEAVY wALKY tALKETS.

Solder ratio of 37% Pb/ 63% Sn is the eutectic alloy and therefore optimal, in my humble opinion. It melts and freezes at a single temperature, which is ideal for 'iron' work since it tends to 'wet out' and flow easily leaving a smooth, shiny surface when it freezes. If you can get it easily, it is by far the best option. Incidentally, it also explains why the melting temperature of lead-free crap is lowered when this is added to existing joints. That's my two-penneth, for what it's worth! 😁

At least this has a better schematic then the crap harmon kardon sub shit thing !!!

Thank you Mr. Richard for your continuous informative posts!

Cant hurt to gather more info before plugging anything in.

*Guys, I have info from the supplier who sells these modules. The Power Module 101 is the same for both amplifiers. The Amplifier Modules 101A and 101B are for the left and right channels respectively. I checked on the 3K6 and one module has the marking partly obscured by paint but I do have a 101A and a 101B. So I can use these to test and hopefully repair the 2K2 amplifier. As both the other amplifier modules are just marked 101 I think I will order a pair 101A/101B for that one. Just to be sure. The only thing i can think is different with the two modules is when you run the amplifier in bridge mode one must invert the audio signal, but it doesn't do that in stereo mode*

There's a listing on ebay which suggests that the 101A is for channel A and the 101B is for channel B, implying, perhaps, that there is a difference (throws entire salt cellar over shoulder).

If I had to guess I would think the 101B is a revision that corrected the 101A overheating in all that. potting compound - I bet electronically they are the same, however I'm not being paid to fix it so I completely understand your caution!

Isn't the module on the main PSU board the 101A? If so does the schematic show the devices to be the same pinout?

I wouldn't risk it either too much unknown

On that ST chip that didn't have the dot marking pin 1 - pin 1 is actually marked with a slope on one side of the chip. If you look from the side you will see that the plastic isn't symmetrical

Maybe the tester doesn't work on 393s because they have an open drain output, so they need a pull up resistor to function properly

Should some copper be exposed on each mounting hole so the screws bond each panel to the metalwork of the box?

The distressed box/module, is on the wrong “foot”ing.

I always find the “2 soldering iron” technique useful when removing small components as using hot air causes stress on other components and sometimes like you did delaminate the board, not good if it’s multilayer, a good RUclips channel is mrsolderfix his techniques are great for SMD components

Благодарим ви!

For the 2 legged components, you might try the twist off approach, which is often recommended (e.g. on Bose wave radio repairs where all the SMD caps need to be replaced). Amazingly, that way the pcb seems to get less damage than from the heat during desoldering

Three Thousand and Six Hundred Watts ! that's a beast.....cheers.

Sou do Brasil continue ensinando dessa forma pois assim eu posso aprender, estou começando agora e seus vídeos estão me ajudando.

I have one with a -5v missing standby I think

You're brave, holding a class 1 appliances (chasis grounded) while switching it on! Given the information that it trips out the mains and there could be a neutral earth fault!!

It looks like that rectangular "thing" on the bottom of that "Power101A" has cracked resin around it (at least on the long sides), is that right? Cracking would have come from heat or "terminally rapid deconstruction" if that's correct. And that "blob" on it looks sus too.

so when the supplys of the moduls dries up these amps become unrepairable.

Think those large bulk caps V+ and V- rails was 147V (at least on the schematic anyway)

Looks similar to Powersoft. A 3kw Powersoft i was working on would not power up via the 100W lightbulb. Sometimes the air filter becomes blocked causing more heat that should be then caps can fail causing other issues. I would check the caps in the switching circuit. If there is a problem there it could be causing the fets to fail.

👍👍👍👍👌👌

It's 4:00 am where I am Rich, great video, Paul, USA

Please advise me which is better, ZOYI ZT-703S or Fnirsi 2C23T ????

I only ever had a expoxy'd down chip once. So my sample size is limited. But my idea was to thread a string of dental floss under the legs from the side. Then I pulled it back and forth and worked it through the resin glue like a string saw. It was a bit fiddly to get in but after that, it went really well. No damage to chip or board. If that hadn't worked, I would've tried acetone. But I read that it might also dissolve solder mask and silkscreen, so I tried the dental floss first. And it worked.

oh boy does turbopascal bring some memories back

Challenge 2 im guessing it depends on the supply voltage, the capacitor and led's are in series, capacitors block dc current. I think maybe the capacitor charges fully to the supply voltage and doesnt allow current to flow through led's, so no voltage drops across led's

666ohms i said 400 ohms thats not correct

Sir you are kinda god to someone like that just started learning electronics

@30:38 Is your meter reading 0.639 MegOhms? That's a 100k resistor you are checking there, not 1 Meg. So it looks like it's reading high, not low.

You are using wrong soldering tips for that job it must be pencil thin tips it's easier to yack it rather than with wide tip because of size of heat area and please use tweezers it's easier to hold thin wire while tacking

What IS THE POINT from the manufacturer's perspective to glue smd components to the PCB? What am I missing here? I don't get it 🤔

To me using "Lacquer Thinner" and/or "Acetone" and then wait 10 minutes and repeat, then wait another 10 minutes and then and only then !!! attempt to un-solder and remove the IC works every time. But I'm yet to also try the paint stripper method but fear that in the process the whole green protective layer will go too. Perhaps, the "Acetone" method is best after all.

Hi Richard, think I've found a schematic, but youtube deletes the post with the link and any reference to the website. Let me know f you still need it.